Fudgy Zucchini Brownies (Squeezed Dry, Not Cakey)

Fudgy zucchini brownies are a good answer to the question of what to do with a couple of zucchini and a craving for chocolate. The squeezed shreds replace most of the butter, and a low flour ratio keeps the center fudgy instead of steamed and cakey. The batter looks too thick at first, which is correct. One 9 by 13 inch pan makes 16 squares and takes 53 minutes, including the wait. Supermarket zucchini works as well as any other, and frozen shredded zucchini can stand in once it is thawed and squeezed dry, so the recipe is useful long after garden season ends.

Why this works

• Zucchini replaces most of the butter, which keeps the squares moist.
• The fat that stays is oil, which is liquid at room temperature, so the brownies stay fudgy even straight out of the fridge.
• A hard squeeze keeps water out of the batter, so the pan bakes instead of steaming.
• A low flour ratio keeps the crumb dense.
• A long cool in the pan sets the center so it cuts cleanly.

What to know about the ingredients

You need 2 medium zucchini, shredded and squeezed to 240 g (2 cups). Shred them on a box grater or with a food processor disk, and keep the shreds fine so they vanish into the crumb.

Choose unsweetened cocoa powder, the same kind you would use for any baked brownie. The recipe calls for 3/4 cup, which is why the flavor is deep. Semisweet chocolate chips go in the batter and on top. Vegetable oil is the only added fat, so use one with a neutral taste.

Sugar is 1 1/2 cups of granulated sugar. Do not cut it, because the sugar affects moisture and the crackly top as well as sweetness. The 1 minute whisk of eggs and sugar matters, because the mixture should ribbon off the whisk. Vanilla extract rounds out the chocolate, and baking soda and salt do the quiet work of lift and balance.

Tips for getting it right

1. Line the 9 by 13 inch (23 by 33 cm) pan with parchment and leave an overhang on the long sides. It becomes your handle later.
2. Twist the shreds in a clean kitchen towel for about 30 seconds, until no more liquid runs out.
3. Whisk the eggs, sugar, oil and vanilla for 1 minute, until the mixture ribbons off the whisk.
4. Stir the shreds into the wet bowl, then fold in the dry mix until no dry cocoa remains.
5. Spread the batter with an offset spatula all the way into the corners, then scatter the last 40 g (1/4 cup) of chips on top.
6. Pull the pan when the edges leave the parchment and the pick shows thick moist crumbs. Do not wait for a clean pick, or the squares turn dry.
7. Trust the soft center. It firms as the pan cools, and a brownie pulled when it looks fully set will bake on and finish dry.
8. Cool at least 90 minutes before you cut. Patience is the whole trick for clean squares.

How to store, freeze and make ahead

Keep the brownies airtight for 4 days at room temperature, or freeze them for 3 months. Freeze cut squares in a single layer first, then bag them, so they do not stick together. Do not refrigerate them warm. Let them cool all the way in the pan first. Because the batter bakes and cools in one pan, you can make them in the morning and cut them in the evening.

What to serve with it

Serve them warm, twenty minutes out of the oven, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream melting on top and a pinch of flaky salt. Cold from the fridge the next day they turn dense and fudgy, which is the other right answer. For a loaf-style option, slice up Double Chocolate Zucchini Bread.

Cut with a clean, sharp knife and wipe the blade between cuts if the center sticks. Leftover squares are as good cold as warm, so there is no need to reheat them.

Variations

• Leave off the chips on top for a plainer, smoother surface.
• Finish with flaky salt, as in the photo.
• Serve with cold milk or coffee.
• Try Chocolate Chip Zucchini Cookies when you want a handheld treat.

Browse the guide to Zucchini Recipes and Small-Batch Preserving for more recipes built around one vegetable.